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The Londoner's Guide to London
30 August 2008
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Ambassade de l'Ile Restaurant

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Venue Image
117-119 Old Brompton Road,
South Kensington,
London,
SW7 3RN

(020) 7373 7774 

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byMark O'Donnell04/07/2008
With two Michelin stars under his belt, Jean-Christophe Ansanay-Alex has a reputation that precedes him all the way across the English Channel from his native France. His new restaurant, Amabassade de I’Ile, offers exceptional high-end food but you will need deep pockets to enjoy the privilege.

The Venue
You can spot the venue as soon as you reach the junction of Gloucester and Old Brompton Road in South Kensington. From the outside it’s a one-storey Edwardian-style building with dark windows that give little indication of the theatre that goes on behind its doors. There is a small tricolour in place above the main entrance just in case you’re wondering if it’s a Masonic HQ.

Once inside, the ground floor space is cut into various pockets that mean you have no idea of the parts that make up the whole space, unless one of the ultra-efficient members of staff show you around. Downstairs there’s an exquisite private room for 8 to 10 people, which is surrounded by a transparent wine cellar and there’s a chef’s table that will soon offer a further 6 patrons the opportunity to see the whites of the chef’s eyes as they go about their business.

The colour scheme is a deep purple, which is a good move as purple is not only a fashionable colour, it’s a timeless one. If Prince designed a restaurant, this is the colour scheme he’d use. Cut against the dark colour is a bright orange canvas and upright banks of white leather squares that provide walls for some of the intimate dining areas. The only problem with purple is that during the daytime the space is dark and the slit blinds barely let enough light into address this.

There’s also a flat glass prism with a small plasma at its centre (relaying footage from the kitchen) and a shag pile carpet that makes it difficult to manoeuvre the white leather and chrome armchairs when getting in and out from the table.

Overall with all the mirrors, white leather and stage lighting it has got a bit of garish 80s disco feel to it.

The People
During a lunchtime sitting there was a couple with a very well behaved baby in tow and an amusing old gent and his society hostess younger partner who provided much entertainment.

Classic quotes spew forth from their conversation, such as there description of the venue as chi-chi and trying too hard. Some people love to moan. Further more while planning their next dinner distinguished guests like Jonathon (Dimbleby) and Martha Stewart (good luck with the Visa application) are on the guestlist.

In a neighbourhood that is home to some of the biggest bank balances in the UK and has a fair share of French residents, this venue with its huge prices is reliant on its neighbours to love it and return for more. It’s also set its stall out to be a magnet for fine diners to travel for the experience of elite French cuisine.

The Food
The food is the key at Amabassade de I’Ile and it’s very good. The set 3 course lunchtime menu at £30 makes this restaurant available to customers who value fine food but are not super-wealthy. If your finances permit you are encouraged to order individual dishes from the a la carte menu or the tasting menu which includes 3 services plus sweets and desserts at £65 or 5 services for £90.

When probed on the dishes to try, the waiter recommends the quail stuffed with honey and cider vinegar at £32 or the vegetable tart with green mustard sorbet (£19). There is much to get excited about and prices range from £19 to £64 for the milk fed lamb in salted crust and green pea gnocchi. If those prices temper your excitement you will be best opting for the set course lunch.

Not that you are able to read the set lunch menu in a physical form. It is only in the head of the very genial waiter, who is happy to help you navigate the menu or relay the choices for each course.

First off there’s a choice of broccoli soup, a broad bean salad or salmon. The latter is selected and it arrives after a stack of vibrantly coloured crisps including herb and sweet potato, which are alive with flavour. The salmon is presented in thin slices on a round plate with a tiny stack of green beans, spring onion and a sprig of herb in the centre. The salmon is very well seasoned and evaporates on the tongue leaving a delicious taste that’s further enhanced by the onion and greens.

For mains, the sea bream is chosen ahead of the belly of pork and the choice is vindicated as it arrives on top of a bed of finely chopped (ratatouille-style) peppers and an incredibly rich and intense buttery foam sauce. The bream’s skin is crisp to the bite and conceals the tender white fish. The solitary basil leaf tingles the senses in one of the last mouthfuls of a delightful dish.

Before dessert a selection of three tempting treats are presented. These include raspberry popcorn, coffee-flavoured biscuits and dinky raspberry and almond flavoured morsels that evoke memories of Bakewell tarts. They’re pretty to look at and a nice touch.

The dessert of peach and cream puff pastry with apricot jam and vanilla ice cream is a bit underwhelming after the quality of the first two courses, that’s not to say its poor, it just isn’t great.

The bill comes to just shy of £40 for the set lunch, a large bottle of Hildon still mineral water and the service charge.

The Drink
The wine list is that big and heavy you could use it as a weight to work out. Weighing in at 38 pages it comes in the shape of a photo album with a biblical grandeur. French wine is, of course, the star of the show. In fact it’s an all French affair and it’s divided into regions to make it easier to navigate.

Price wise you can get a glass of Viogner de Roisine at £5.50, a Cote Rotie for £13 or a glass of Gosset Grand Reserve champagne at £18. Choose carefully when ordering a bottle as the zeros multiply and prices reach a staggering £4800 for a Montrachet Grand Cru.

The Final Word
This restaurant is capable of some outstanding gastronomic experiences. If you value that above all and have the cash to match your ambition, the Amabassade de I’Ile is calling.
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