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The Londoner's Guide to London
07 September 2008
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Christophers American Bar and Grill

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18 Welllington Street,
Covent Garden,
London,
WC2E 7DD

0871 971 6391 Calls to 0871 numbers will be charged at a fixed rate of 10p per minute (from a landline or a mobile) no matter where you are within the UK. This number is unique to viewlondon.co.uk.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byKelly Hussey01/07/2008
If you love the taste of America - complete with its huge portion sizes and slabs of juicy meat - then Christophers American Bar and Grill won’t disappoint. Just be ready to get a cab home at the end of the night as you’re unlikely to be able to move after indulging to bursting point.

The Venue
Located in an attractive white marble corner-building, which you’d be forgiven for walking right past thanks to its subtle signage, Christophers American Bar and Grill is accessed via a long, winding staircase. It may not sound like a particularly decadent restaurant, but the decor and layout suggest otherwise. Declare your booking at the central reception desk before ascending the beautiful staircase to the right. Upon reaching the top you’re met with a reasonably sized, pleasantly attired restaurant complete with white-tablecloth adourned tables, which are quite closely placed together but avoid a sardined in feeling. Large windows overlooking the Lyceum Theatre, wooden floors and large, round lampshades that act as something of a centrepiece finish the look.

The Atmosphere
The restaurant is simple and clean, and that extends through to the atmosphere, which is one of bubbles of conversation with teals of laughter occasionally punctuating the oasis of calm. The staff are efficient and friendly and service is pretty impeccable, which makes a nice change from many of Central London’s restaurants. Waiting times aren’t long, even when the restaurant is busy. What’s particularly nice here is that the nature of some of the dishes - especially the large Surf and Turf - draws a few gasps and looks of appreciation when carried through the restaurant, adding a nice air to proceedings. Christophers American Bar and Grill is also child friendly, and it’s not uncommon to spy a couple of (well behaved!) children enjoying a large family meal.

The clientele is mostly made up of tourists, but the atmosphere isn’t overly touristy in itself. Unsurprisingly, also expect a large number of Americans to be enjoying a taste of home, which speaks well of the authenticity of the food.

The Food
Although this is called Christophers American Bar and Grill, if you’re not a big meat eater there is also a nice choice of fish dishes and other meat and veggie options that skew away from the big chunks of steak. That said, that’s what this restaurant does really well, and if you’re up for a challenge, it’s worth splashing out.

Starters range come in at the £6-£10 range and offer a well balanced selection of everything from chilled borscht to Caesar salad or a carpaccio of beef ‘Harry’s Bar’ style. Decent enough, they don’t live up to the promise (and realisation) of the mains. The corn chowder with sweetcorn flan, maple cured bacon and pesto is pleasant, if a little rich and the jelly-like flan won’t appeal to all palates. The chilled asparagus, soft quails eggs, macadamia nut dressing is the real disappointment, however. The dressing is overly sweet, the quail eggs are hard boiled, missing a trick by not utilising the delicious runny yolk, and the asparagus is a little too hard (although they’re well flavoured). You’ll be forgiven for being dubious about the mains; however, where the starters fall down the mains more than make up for.

A great, well balanced selection is overshadowed by the frankly impressive choice of steak and hefty meat choices. Highly recommended is the grilled 14oz New York strip sirloin steak for £30.00 (if you haven’t got that kind of budget then go for the 10oz version instead for £23.50). A huge slab of meat appears on your plate, cooked to perfection and adourned with a side sauce. The steak sauce is rich and juicy, the red wine and jus flavours complementing the steak perfectly. Full of flavour and easy to cut through the juices pour out of the rich meat and across the plate, attesting to its fine quality. You’ll be hard pushed to get through it all, even without sides. However, that pales in comparison to the Surf 'n' turf - a grilled 10oz rib eye steak with Maine lobster for £34.50 (again, if your budget’s a bit tight then there’s a cheaper option of the Surf ‘n’ Turf burger, where the steak is replaced with a juicy 8oz chopped steak burger instead for £24.50). This delicious, well balanced Surf ‘n’ Turf mixes the rich, juicy flavours of the steak (which again is cooked perfectly and is deliciously tender) with the subtly sweet, soft flesh of the lobster. Stunningly presented, you’ll immediately feel happily greedy. It’s recommended you go for one of several perfectly cooked sides. The creamed spinach is rich without being overpowering, as is the creamy, cheesy mash. The mushrooms are large and juicy and the battered onions crispy and delicate. Just be prepared to go home stuffed!

Desserts are equally as good as the mains - the baked New York cheesecake with blueberries is sweet and creamy, with a pleasant consistency that is a little softer than the usual cheescake, but works well with the blueberry sauce.

The Drink
The wine list is excellently put together and described, with pages of well broken up selections (red, white, rose, dessert and sparkling options) covering every conceivable budget - from prices in the £20 region rising to well over £100. Highly recommended is the Pinot Blanc for £37.50. Light and fresh it’s crisp and clean with slight grassy undertones. And if you’ve not been to the Martini Bar downstairs, indulge in a post-meal cocktail here in the restaurant.

The Last Word
Christophers American Bar and Grill may be a little hit and miss in places, but the overall excellent service and simple incredible main courses will leave you in little doubt that it’s money well spent.
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